This warm prefecture that stretches across the southern coast of Shikoku might not seem like the ideal location to brew sake, yet Kochi’s 18 breweries churn out an impressive number of surprisingly light and dry varieties.
With a distinctly different vibe from the more in-your-face profiles of most sake from western Japan, the dry and eminently drinkable touch of Kochi’s brews is partly due to locals’ love of partying, as the comparatively less sweet profile allows revelers to keep downing cups into the early hours, often accompanied by sawachi cuisine (large platters of tasty tidbits) and katsuo no tataki, the seared bonito dish that is a local soul food.
People in Kochi love to share their love of sake, and one of the best times to experience this is at the Tosa no Okyaku, a festival that runs from the first Saturday to the second Sunday of March, when the streets and major parks of Kochi City turn into one big party. All 18 breweries come to share their bounty, with tastings and long lines of tables set up along the length of the city’s covered shopping streets to accommodate revelers. Musical performances, curious masks, rounds of bekuhai (a drinking game resembling a more grown up version of dreidel) and other hijinks make for an unforgettable atmosphere.
We highly recommend timing your visit to span a full weekend, to visit the city’s 300-year Sunday Market, a 1.3km line of stalls that stretches from the foot of Kochi Castle. Line your stomach with delicious local favorites like imoten (deep fried bites of sweet potato), the veggie-filled inaka sushi, grilled skewers of local beef, and sweets featuring yuzu citrus fruit, before heading on an easy sake themed day trip to two of the prefecture’s prettiest breweries.
Just a quick 25-minute ride on the JR Dosan Limited Express train from Kochi Station takes you to the attractive retro town of Sakawa, home to the over 400-year old Tsukasabotan Brewery, the long white walls of which are an iconic part of the townscape. Although only available in Japanese, the brewery tour is well worth it to see the historical buildings, to taste their representative brews, and to take home a 180ml bottle of sake. Wander through Makino Park, dedicated to Dr. Tomitaro Makino, a Sakawa native who went on to become the “father of Japanese botany.” In spring the cherry blossoms and views of the town cry out for a little sake-fueled picnic.
Call a taxi and take a quick 20-minute ride for a very different experience at the sleek, artistic Tosa-gura, the second outpost of internationally renowned Suigei, a brewery easily recognizable by its “drunken whale” motifs, a nod to how the 19th century sake-loving lord of Tosa, Yodo Yamauchi, once described himself. The Tosa-gura facility produces primarily premium junmai daiginjō sake, including Suigei’s luxury line. Tours are available in Japanese and are only ¥500 per person, including a sake tasting at the end. The design of Tosa-gura is as stylish as the brewery is high-tech. The attached Suigei Store and Sake Lab Cafe serve sweet treats made with sake lees and non-alcoholic amazake drinks for those who are driving. Others might like to take advantage of the opportunity to sample Suigei’s premium offerings and limited edition sake not available anywhere else.
Can’t manage a trip to the party-loving prefecture? At Marugoto Kochi in Tokyo’s Ginza district you can try a wide variety of sake in the basement cave, or pair them with food at the popular restaurant.
Helpful links:
Suigei tour: https://visitkochijapan.com/en/see-and-do/10538
Tsukasabotan tour: https://tosakoi.jp/en/tour/m04/
Marugoto Kochi: http://marugotokochi.com
Learn more about Kochi sake: https://www.kochi-fresh.com/en/products/sake-and-tea/tosa-sake/
For those who prefer to let the pros take care of planning, the folks at https://www.kochiescapes.jp can help you create a perfect sake-themed adventure to Kochi.
