Many people in this world are familiar with Akita as a dog if not the prefecture from which this iconic breed originates. It’s also the breed of the famous “Hachikô” dog statue in Shibuya–if you’re not familiar with this story of devotion, do look it up. It was actually made into a popular film starring Richard Gere (Hachi: A Dog’s Tale). Those of us with a passion for sake recognize Akita as one of Japan’s great production areas. We at Sake Today also know that the mountainous prefecture offers travel adventure. We’d like to share that with you here, especially in light of this issue’s (28) feature on Yuki no Bosha, and last issue’s (27) feature on Kodama Jôzô.
We’ve made many a bullet train-trek to Akita over the years, primarily for its hot springs and hiking/biking opportunities. Few mountainous areas in Japan are without hot spring resorts, but something about Akita’s scenery has always struck us as more majestic. The jagged geography, the pristine wilderness, the copious amounts of snow in the colder months and relatively cool climate in the summer all make a soak in the healing geothermal waters an experience to remember. There’s a reason why the warriors of old came here to convalesce–it was good for the body and the soul.
Tamagawa is a hot springs village to which we often find our minds returning. Like many hot spring towns, a river runs through it–the Shibukuro River–with steam rising from various patches of it where the springs feed it. There are a couple of lodging complexes in the village with their own extensive bath systems and room options. Hot spring resort meals are a special treat and local ingredients are a feature of most. In Akita, you’re likely to experience meals served with iburi gakko, which is smoked, pickled daikon (radish), and kiritampo, or rice pounded and formed into a cylinder. The latter is often added to hot pots, or toasted on a skewer and brushed with sweet miso paste. We’ve never visited a hot spring resort in Japan that did not stock local sake and this resort is no different–they in fact highlight their “carefully selected inventory”.
The village has scenic walks along the river and in the general vicinity so visitors can appreciate the geologic activity. The nearby segment of Towada-Hachimantai National Park, which is sprawling and covers three prefectures, even offers “bedrock bathing”. Yes, the rocks emit heat.
Avid hikers, meanwhile, may want to take the 7.7 km out-and-back trail to Mount Akita-Yakeyama in the warmer months. It’s considered a difficult climb with a volcanic lake one of the pay-offs.
Nyûtô is another hot springs village we recommend. With seven relatively small ryokan (traditional inns), it has a decidedly rustic feel. One of the inns, Tsuru no Yu, is over three-hundred-years old. The water of many baths in the village is milky in appearance and famous throughout Japan. Most hot spring aficionados in Japan have this resort high on their recommended list. The hiking attraction in this area is Mount Akita-Komagatake (1637m), which actually has multiple peaks and relatively easy trails with breathtaking views.
There are many other hot spring villages in Akita’s mountains that you should look into. One final option–perhaps the one we like best–is to stay in a hot spring inn that overlooks Lake Tazawako, Japan’s deepest lake (423m), and also one of its most expansive. A caldera lake, it’s like a gigantic mirror on clear, still days. The Tazawako Ski Area even overlooks it, if you are a skier or snowboarder. While we have visited several times in the winter to soak in the serene baths, Tazawako offers plenty to the visitor in warmer months or even the fall when the mountainsides turn crimson with autumn colors. Many people (including us) have enjoyed a bicycle tour around the lake. Bicycles are easily rented from the lakeside Tazawako-han bus terminal and you should probably budget four or five hours for a leisurely trip.
Akita may be one of those places in Japan where you don’t simply check off a box for having visited it. You’ll want to return, as we have many times. And it wasn’t even the sake that lured us there. But as you gaze over the scenery and sip yours, you’ll have to admit that the local liquid treasures are quite a special bonus.
