What’s a night with Enter.Sake like? Enter music, dance, great sake and ample fun.
World-renowned techno musician Richie Hawtin wrote about his love for music and sake in a recent edition of Sake Today, touching briefly on his Enter.Sake project. It is basically Hawtin’s curated collection of sake brands, a private-label portfolio which includes such breweries as Fujioka Shuzo, located in Kyoto’s famed Fushimi district. The sake are all specially brewed for the collection and, contrary to expectation, quite reasonably priced for the average consumer.
I had the opportunity to try all the sake in the collection at a tasting night a few months ago held by True Sake in San Francisco, the pioneering sake shop owned and operated by Beau Timken. What struck me most about the sake was their ease of drinking. Many curated alcohol portfolios can be eclectic, with extreme, if not bold, flavor profiles–interesting to drink, but perhaps not cup after cup. These were all bottles you could drink with a fine meal or even as is without tiring of the flavor. In another life, the godfather of techno music would have made a fine dining alcohol manager.
Hawtin was quite the host. In the alcohol industry, you meet many celebrities but perhaps none as down-to-earth as Hawtin. He was brimming with smiles the whole evening and poured for all the guests, spending ample time chatting with each. Naturally, music fans showed up with some visible giddiness, but so, too, did those more interested in hearing his thoughts on sake, in which he is admirably versed (yes, he is a level-two Certified Sake Professional). For some, it’s enough to know that the sake is good, but others will be happy to hear that a good person has gathered these fine selections together.
After the event and in the car on the way to dinner, we had a brief moment to speak more about sake face to face. Hawtin sees himself as an ambassador for sake as much as one for music. He clearly takes an interest in the process behind the sake as well, visiting the breweries and getting to know their stories. Enter.Sake isn’t by any means a cynical use of celebrity to pump products. This is very much a deeply personal project that Hawtin is passionate about.
Later that evening, Ritchie was in his environment behind the DJ booth at a large club. As the music throbbed and morphed into different soundscapes, the bar poured sake from his collection. Upstairs, there was even a sake booth with a neon sign of the kanji for sake. The availability of sake is a trademark part of his music events, and he usually has some at the ready near his equipment as well. Most guests are there for the music, not the sake, but a few, when questioned, replied that they were intrigued by the drink and wanted to learn more–they had just never given it much thought until trying it at his events. If Hawtin’s music can be the gateway to appreciation of sake, then so be it. There could be worse ways than through music to discover a great drink.
Hawtin’s shows pop up in major cities around the world. They culminate in a massive event in Ibiza each year where, of course, there is a sake bar. The picture of Richie pouring on the cover of issue #7 was taken at just such an event. But if quieter scenes are more your style, then at least try to get a bottle from the collection for your private enjoyment. I’m sure it will suit any music you choose to listen to as you sip away.
by Ry Beville
