Sendai, Miyagi is a party town. Its ample bars and boisterous streets at least give that immediate impression to visitors with a thirst for adventure and good sake. Even its residents would agree that eating and drinking in communal, celebratory fashion is not an unpopular pastime. This is a common characteristic of “gateway” cities and Sendai, as the Tôhoku region’s largest city and transportation hub, is certainly a gateway to Japan’s “Deep North”.
That phrase borrows from Matsuo Bashô’s famous, late-17th century work, “The Narrow Road to the Deep North”, a poetic journey which took him through the Tôhoku region in an age when such travel was dangerous (travel by foot would still be challenging, and rugged at times, in the present moment). His feudal-era footsteps passed through several districts of modern-day Sendai, and the city played host to a handful of his heralded compositions. Bashô, of course, wasn’t the only artist to leave a creative record of his passage while observing the natural and cultural riches of the area. Even today, there are plenty of spots offering respite from the “Floating World” and mediative opportunity if ‘partying’ is not your preference.
Whether your journey takes you down the contemplative path or the epicurean one, it will still likely begin in Sendai. Which is why our guide begins here, too. Let’s get some of the sites of the city in before we go out for a drink and some of the north’s great rustic dishes. We think this is a good piece of advice on arriving in any Japanese city, anyway: just go out and see it. You’ll quickly get a feel for its character. You probably won’t run into roving bands of armed brigands, either, as Bashô’s contemporaries worried.
With a population of around one million, metropolitan Sendai has all the infrastructure, convenience and urban sightseeing of a typical large Japanese city. Strolling the relatively wide, tree-lined streets will likely generate some interest and appreciation, but for unique structures in the city, head to the Sendai Mediatheque building. The unusual architecture of this public institution of cultural activity is intriguing to see, both inside and out. It’s like giant pick-up sticks were used for the skeleton of a transparent glass cube–but go imagine and marvel for yourself. It has won a slew of awards for its design and is certainly worth a stroll-by (and stroll-through). The AER Building downtown offers a panoramic view of the city from its “Lookout Terrace” and is free. A better view, though, is from Aoba Castle–or at least what remains of it–on a plateau overlooking the city. The castle was destroyed many times over the centuries, most recently from WWII bombing, but since then, some of the structures have been rebuilt, giving it tourist appeal beyond the expansive views.
If you’re a castle buff (and we don’t blame you) the on-site museum has castle artifacts, a diorama of the castle during the medieval age, and a movie theater running a short (in Japanese) on the castle. The Sendai City Museum is also on the castle grounds and offers a thorough dive into local history, with many of the features relating to the local Date clan which lorded over the region. Just a few blocks to the north lies the Miyagi Museum of Art, which specializes in modern work from artists in Sendai and the greater Tôhoku region. The collection does include some pieces from international figures like Paul Klee. There are botanical gardens in the immediate area, too, if the weather is nice. The Botanical Gardens of Tôhoku University are the most extensive, with over 800 species and several specific collections–like irises–in ostentatious bloom depending on the season.
Visiting local shrines and temples almost seems an obligatory part of travel in Japan. In Sendai, as most elsewhere in Japan, it likely won’t disappoint, either. The unique, ornate architecture and detail-oriented gardens of such destinations are a physical testament to native genius–accuse us of cliché, but where else is history and culture expressed with such painstakingly crafted beauty? Rinnôji, a temple to the north of Sendai’s downtown district, boasts lovely inner gardens with a picturesque three-storied pagoda. The approach in the snow is particularly stark and beautiful, like something you’d imagine from a woodblock print evoking the loneliness of winter. The rock and sand garden is noteworthy, too, rivaling in our opinion some of the better known ones elsewhere in Japan. Shifukuji is lesser known, but right beside Rinnjô-ji and certainly worth your time. It’s known as a “hydrangea temple”–many in Japan have an abundance of this plant, celebrated throughout the centuries in poetry for its varying pastel colors in June. Even if you aren’t visiting during the blooming season, we think you’ll find the quiet time here restorative.
The Shintô shrine Ôsaki Hachimangû is an officially designated National Treasure of Japan with architecture that suggests opulence through its vivid gold details against black lacquer and wood. Many locals will leave an ema (small wooden plaques on which prayers are written) for the Rakuten Eagles, the local professional baseball team. The gods granted pious fans their wish in 2013 with a championship.
Tôshôgû is another shrine of note, one of several across Japan dedicated to legendary shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa. It’s impressive (not all shrines touted by city tourist bureaus are), with intricate ornamentation and construction that could leave you studying it for some time. This was not built with modesty in mind. During cherry blossom season it is especially attractive, though again, snow rarely looks unattractive on imposing shrine architecture, either. Get up for an early morning visit after snowfall if you can. In the warmer months, you may by lucky enough to visit during a flea market on the approach. Check the hawkers’ wares for some affordable sake cups to commemorate your visit.
These spots above should more than provide your cultural and historical fill for a day, and they are all located within reasonable walking distance of downtown Sendai–a few kilometers at most. If your needs and interests are more specific, there are ample online resources in English about Sendai. Specific needs? Okay, for sake and food, we think we’re the best resource. It’s finally time to hit the town.
It doesn’t get any more central than Puratto, a sake joint in Sendai’s main station (and we forgive you, of course, if you drop in for a sip before you head to your hotel or cultural destinations around town). It serves selections from many breweries in the prefecture, and offers small dishes, including Miyagi specialties, to go along with the sake. Tasting sets come in a variety of sizes, too, depending on how much of the line-up you want to try to drink through. We recommend going easy, since there’s much more opportunity out on the town. Prices are very reasonable and you’ll only need to spend a few thousand yen to whet your appetite. Perhaps this goes without saying, but don’t forget this place if you are departing Sendai by Shinkansen (or one of the other lines). You can take the edge off before taking your seat.
Speaking of Miyagi specialties, there are a few you’ll see on the menu at many places, but two in particular that are renowned beyond prefectural borders: oysters (from the Sanriku Coast) and cow tongue. Vegans and vegetarians among you should also know that the mountainous areas inland yield ample vegetables, including some unique to the locales, that chefs use in simple, tasty dishes. You shouldn’t have trouble finding something that suits your dietary restrictions.
For some of the best of both worlds–sake and local cuisine–head to Miyagi-themed restaurant Datehan Nagaya Sakeba. This restaurant has a respectable selection of Miyagi sake (from 23 breweries), including a few ‘specially curated’ selections that will still only cost you a little north of ¥1000. There is a wide variety of casual regional cuisine to pair with your drinks, from seafood to grilled items. The oyster nabe pot for two or three people is recommended. With a dark wooden interior and rafters that almost make you feel as if you are inside a kura, this restaurant provides the full sake dining experience for decent prices.
Another popular sake joint if you are looking for something less casual and more on the sophisticated end is Hatago. Owner Aoya has done an excellent job of educating his staff, providing a classy ambience, and creating a delicious menu of elegant food and sake alike. Sit at the bar or a table and enjoy some 60 premium varieties of sake, including a few aged ones. With wagyû, maguro, seasonal dishes, and light fare for a variety of pairing possibilities, this is the place to go if you want to splurge.
If you’re doing some bar hopping or prefer to stick with casual, first try Sugawara Saketen. This may strike some as weird because it’s a corner tobacco shop. But like many of these old school neighborhood shops, you can get a cup of local sake (or event a tasting flight) from the afternoon onward. The late-night spot best described as a local “sake dive bar” we’ve saved for last: Chrome. It opens as late as 9pm and runs until 5am in the morning. Dangerous, yes, but dangerously fun for many people. It can be smoky, grungy and has free karaoke, but if you want to see how the hard-partying locals entertain themselves, they will welcome you with open arms. Oh yeah, the sake… Chrome has a whopping 130+ varieties (as well as 40 types of shôchû) for very reasonable prices. Good luck and don’t get too carried away–great day trips in the prefecture await you.
Matsushima Bay is a destination worth seeing if you travel all the way to Sendai. It’s known as one of the “Three Views of Japan” (Japan loves lists like this). What distinguishes this coastal regional from the rest of Japan’s many scenic bays and waterways are the wind-blown pines growing from 260 jagged islands and rocky outcroppings in the relatively placid waters. Even those of us who may have become jaded by years of travel in Japan comment that time spent here was worthwhile and rather soothing because of the tranquil scenery. We understand why Bashô felt compelled to rest awhile and indulge his creative impulses. Cruise boats operate in the bay (most offering audio commentary, if you want it), with tours lasting between 20 and 50 minutes and priced from ¥1000. From land, the views from Godaidô Temple are certainly not disappointing. You may notice a much longer red bridge leading to what is known as Fukuura Island. Visitors can cross for a couple hundred yen to stroll the island and its small beach. One temple of interest in the vicinity is Zuiganji, built in 1609 and known for its stone Buddhas in caves on the grounds as well as its intricate reliefs inside the temple. The garden of the adjacent Entsuin temple is an attraction worth seeing, too, with its Zen influenced design and mossy stretches.
If you find yourself hungry, definitely dine on some oysters, whose peak season lasts roughly from October to March (corresponding perfectly with sake brewing season!). Several of the shacks along the waterfront offer all-you-can-eat options. In the summer, anago (saltwater eel) is the seasonal offering. If you want some sake with your seafood, try one of the many izakaya in the area. The best time to go for oyster lovers is the first Sunday in February, when the annual Matsushima Oyster Festival kicks off. The streets are lined with vendors selling the harvest in various forms, as well as many other grilled treats. It will be the most frigid mass picnic you’ll likely ever attend, so dress warmly.
Or bathe warmly. Miyagi prefecture has several hot springs resort towns within easy railway distance from Sendai. Akiu to the southwest (but still technically within municipal boundaries) is a popular destination for the range of attractions it offers beyond its geothermic riches. The Akiu Traditional Craft Village is a cluster of traditional buildings where local artisans work on hand-crafted goods, most notable among them, perhaps, kokeshi dolls. These simple, wooden forms (with no arms or legs, merely a head and body) are said to originate from this region, and the various onsen throughout Tôhoku are known for different styles. For a reasonable fee (¥1000~) visitors to the village can take part in an array of workshops taught by the artisans, including handkerchief dyeing, kokeshi doll painting, and carving. Nearby, the Akiu Village marketplace is a bright, spacious, indoor market selling an expansive number of local products, from fresh fruits and vegetables to packaged souvenir edibles.
Those partial to the outdoors will find a handful of pleasant options in the area. The Rairaikyô Gorge is in the immediate vicinity of a number of hot spring lodgings. Its winding paths are worth ‘exploring’ to see the rugged rock formations of its interior and two small waterfalls. Going deeper into the interior, the Akiu Great Falls is a 55m waterfall (one of Japan’s “top-100”… those lists again) whose viewing deck is easily accessible via well-groomed trails. In fact, there are a couple of easy trails in the forested grounds of the shrine at the entrance to the site. Pressing even deeper along the small road through Akiu, you reach Futakuchi Gorge. The natural surroundings here are quite lush and the sheer cliffs of the nearby mountain, with trees clinging to its upper reaches, make for a stunning view when the leaves are turning or emerging. Oh yes, there are waterfalls in the area, albeit less spectacular, and lots of less-traveled walking/hiking routes.
One other hot springs area that we’d like to recommend is Naruko Onsen (note that there are five hot spring villages clustered in this area). The primary attraction for many, besides the peace and quiet of the mountainous locale and the baths, is Naruko Gorge. Carving through the mountains about a 30-minute walk from Naruko Onsen Station, this 100m ravine and rock-strewn river of rapids is partly accessible via trail, though a panoramic view of the surrounding scenery is possible from Ofukazawa Bridge, which traverses it.
Earlier, we noted that most arrive in Miyagi through Sendai, but there is a more picturesque passage coming from adjacent Yamagata prefecture via the mountains. We’ve arrived this way riding a ‘slow’ train on a return from Yamadera, another spot made famous by Bashô. We featured this temple complex high in the mountains, as well as Zao–the mountain immediately to the south–in our feature on Yamagata in Sake Today #11. We won’t dwell on it too much here except to say that the Miyagi side of Zao also offers incredible hiking and winter sports opportunities (hot spring facilities, too).
Conversely, you could leave Sendai and Miyagi on that same train route for Yamadera, thus reconnecting with one of Bashô’s stops on the “Narrow Road.” Or, if you are really ambitious and inspired, you could trace his original route which passed north into Iwate prefecture, before cutting back southwest across Miyagi and into the deep mountains of Yamagata. There are people who do it, in fact, with both real guide groups and online resources helping to mark the way. Again, you probably won’t have to worry about brigands, but pack warmly. Sake may come in handy along the way.
