Tottori Prefecture, with its wealth of off-the-beaten-path adventures, rarely fails to delight travelers looking to experience rural Japan. As Japan’s least populous prefecture (~538,000 residents), it’s an unheralded escape from the sometimes overwhelming bustle of the country’s sprawling, densely populated cities. Large swaths of nature parks and preserves mixed with vast stretches of farmland occupy the majority of the land. Beyond the two cities of Tottori (the capital) and Yonago, no other municipality eclipses 50,000 people.
For those interested in geographical anomalies, the prefecture’s most recognizable attraction is Tottori Sakyū, a long stretch of sand dunes on the capital city’s coastline along the Sea of Japan. Any tourism poster, literature, or website on Tottori will feature a photo of the dunes. The visitor center houses exhibits and a short movie explaining the geological history, flora, and fauna of the park. Though much is in Japanese, there’s a good amount of literature in English (and other languages) available as well. The most accessible viewing point of the dunes is adjacent to the visitor center. If you want to venture out onto the dunes for a commemorative photo, it’s allowed, though more tiring than it looks.
It’s a little odd seeing the live camels, which visitors can ride for their immersive desert experience, but it is a tourist site after all. Personally, my preferred tourism indulgence here is grabbing an egg steamed in hot sand and a local craft beer at the Sakyū Kaikan gift shop, then enjoying them at an outside picnic table. The gift shop also has Tottori sake for purchase.
Anyone who was enthralled by building sand castles as a kid may take interest in the massive sand sculptures at the Sand Museum. The themes change every few years, the previous one being ancient Egyptian landmarks. To celebrate the 2024 Summer Olympics, France will be the next theme (opening mid-April).
The entire coastal area running east (about 75km) from the Tottori dunes area through Hyogo prefecture to Kyōtango in northern Kyoto Prefecture comprises the San’in Kaigan UNESCO Global Geopark. This natural conservation area features fascinating rock formations and scenic seaside overlooks interspersed with small pockets of sandy beach. The seriously ambitious who have a significant amount of time could walk the entire route in a week or so. Cycling is also an option. For travelers with just a day to spare, the trails between Ajiro Port and Uradome Beach should more than suffice. The rocky shoreline in this area highlights the charms of the Geopark and has far fewer tourists than the dunes. For useful course maps see the download page of the official website (sanin-geo.jp).
In Tottori City, the Tottori Mingei (Folk Crafts) Museum is an unusual attraction founded in 1949 by Dr. Shōya Yoshida (1898–1972), an ardent admirer of the mingei movement. The term refers to handiworks created by artisans for common use–items like tableware or room furnishings. Japanese craftwork is revered around the world, but there is a simple, practical side to the tradition worth seeing here. The objects on display in the museum are not for purchase, but there is an adjoining shop (Takumi) that sells mingei, including sake vessels, made by local artists at reasonable prices.
A restaurant connected to the shop, Takumi Kappō (est. 1962), recreates an older traditional setting and was conceptualized by Dr. Yoshida as a place where customers could dine with actual mingei art. Interestingly enough, the doctor is also credited with introducing shabu shabu to Japan. Yoshida modeled the dish (replacing lamb with beef) after a local Beijing specialty he discovered when dispatched to China as a military doctor. Needless to say, the shabu shabu courses at Takumi Kappō are excellent. In addition, the restaurant serves a variety of locally made wine, shōchū, and sake, including a few produced specially for them.
Many of the city’s restaurants and bars are clustered in the same area as the Mingei Museum, just north of Tottori Station. Outside of the weekend the scene is relatively quiet. One of the most welcoming I visited was Grazie, which I would describe as a high-end izakaya serving local fare. The staff were friendly and lively, and it was comparatively busy for a weeknight. The sake featured here leans heavily toward junmai-shu mostly produced within the prefecture. On a similar note, Tenmari, located in the covered arcade just beyond the station, had the best selection of Tottori alcohol that I’ve come across. The proprietress of the second-floor bar was knowledgeable (and will try her best with English if you need it). The food, for the most part, is made with local ingredients and designed less as a meal than for pairing with sake.
Shuraku (literally ‘sake fun’), just around the corner from Tenmari, also has a solid offering of local sake to go along with a wide variety of seasonal seafood and other Tottori delights. The atmosphere is somewhat subdued and having some Japanese proficiency would be useful when ordering. Neither the cuisine nor the drink will disappoint. Ku Walker is a more modern izakaya with a relatively simple, yet respectable menu of charcoal-grilled meats and seafood that also has a focus on local sake.
Speaking of local sake, Nakagawa Shuzō (Inaba Tsuru and Fukujukai brands) is a couple kilometers from Tottori Station. Like most of the breweries in Tottori, they focus keenly on junmai and use of Tottori sake rice Gōriki. Nakagawa’s sake is easy to find throughout the prefecture, but they have a shop in the brewery if you want to browse the whole range of products. Similarly, Zuisen, the brand produced by Takata Shuzō in neighboring Iwami, is also commonly found in izakaya, liquor stores, and gift shops. The kura is out of the way and a visit isn’t really necessary.
Moving west from Tottori City, our next stop is Kurayoshi, about a 30-minute journey by express train. One of the main draws of this small city is the historical district with Shirokabe Dozōgun (White Wall Warehouses). Its old merchant residences and storehouses from the premodern Edo period to the Taishō period (1912-26) have been converted into cafes, restaurants, and a variety of other shops, but they still retain their traditional charm.
Previously I mentioned that Dr. Yoshida is believed to have brought the concept of shabu shabu to Japan. At Seisuian, in the historical district, the dish has evolved in an interesting direction. Instead of meat, the restaurant’s specialty is mochi shabu shabu. Mochi is usually a ball or rectangular cake of glutinous rice, but at Seisuian it’s served in an array of colorful, faintly flavored slices to be dipped in hot water shabu shabu-style.
The main store for Gensui Shuzō (sake brand of the same name) is just a block away from Seisuian. Grab some shiboritate (freshly pressed) sake here to savor at your hotel in the evening. Gensui’s main brewery is a little over a kilometer from the shop, but it does offer tours (in Japanese, with reservation) and tastings. In the same few blocks around Seisuian, you can indulge in more sake (Shikun brand) at Takata Shuzō (not to be confused with the Iwami brewery of the same name), local wine at the Kurayoshi Winery, and craft beer at Brew Lab Kurayoshi. The latter employs sake kasu and locally grown Hoshizoramai rice in some of its creative brews.
In need of a break in your travels? Let’s shift to Misasa Onsen, a hot springs area established more than eight centuries ago. The kanji for Misasa translates to “three mornings”. I was informed it was so named because a stay of that long is essential to feel properly rejuvenated. I will present no argument to the contrary. Bathe like daimyō of old in the open-air, public Kawara Bath, situated right on the edge of the Mitoku River. This one is not for the shy as there’s not much in the way of concealment–you’re literally bathing in public! There is also a public foot bath and more private bathing options nearby. A stay at one of the many ryokan, ranging from the modern to those officially designated by the government as Tangible Cultural Properties, is the best choice to get the full experience. On this excursion I visited family-run Kiya Ryokan, founded in 1868. The beautiful, historical inn has baths dating back to the Meiji period (1868-1912), as well as those from the Taishō and Shōwa (1926-1989) eras. Take a dip in history followed by an extravagant kaiseki meal and let your stress melt away.
Forget to pick up a bottle of sake for a nightcap? Fret not! Fujii Shuzō is walking distance from most of the ryokan. The brewery is sought out for its koshu. Its 2010 IWC Gold Medal-winning Hakurou Koshu (vintage 1996) continues to evolve over time–and also disappear off shelves! If you take a liking to it, you might want to splurge on a bottle or two. At the brewery’s store you can do tastings of various sake and also amazake (a predominantly non-alcoholic, viscous, fermented rice drink) mixed on-the-spot with ginger, matcha, and even instant coffee.
One more destination of cultural significance in the Misasa area is Mitokusan. The ancient temple complex of Sanbutsu-ji, a national historic site, was built into the thickly wooded mountainside some 1300 years ago. It’s a trip into the past offering peaceful views of the valley mostly unchanged from the way ascetics would have seen it centuries ago. There are steep sections along the trails with chains to assist in climbing at some points. Regular hikers will be unintimidated, but a certain level of fitness is required. Entry is somewhat strict: climbing alone is prohibited, young children are not allowed, and you may get denied admission if you don’t have proper footwear. The trails are closed due to heavy snow in winter or during other inclement weather. It’s about 90 minutes round trip to the most distant temple structure, Nageiridō, which is built directly into a cliff.
Continuing westward from central Tottori to Yonago, there are some sake breweries of note, including Ōtani Shuzō (Takaisami; see feature this issue) and Umetsu Shuzō (Furei). Takaisami is ubiquitous in the prefecture so while consuming this sake is a must, visiting the kura is not necessary (unless you’ve been invited for a brewery tour). Umetsu, however, has a shop selling a wide variety of alcohol (shōchū, umeshu, pear wine, etc) made with a heavy focus on local ingredients. It also offers small group tours (in Japanese; reservation required). The Umetsu family passionately designs its sake (all junmai-shu, much of it kimoto) to be heated. After picking up a few bottles at the brewery, fans of the manga Detective Conan will also want to swing by the Gōshō Aoyama Manga Factory, a few kilometers away.
There’s more in the way of manga to experience in just a bit, but first let’s move to Yonago. This city, at Tottori’s western border with Shimane, is a good base for exploring both the Mount Daisen area and the neighboring city of Sakaiminato, both described in more detail below.
Inata Honten, founded in 1673, just celebrated its 350th year of sake making and warrants a visit. It’s a 30-minute walk from the nearest station so taking a cab is probably the best option. Its facilities are sizable with a shop that offers tastings, a mini movie theater to watch videos about its history, and a walking course that allows you to look down into parts of the brewery.
My sake-centric bar recommendation in Yonago is Kaga. Its specialties are smoked dishes, sake, and friendly service. It’s a bit hidden in the backstreets of downtown, but worth the effort if you want to have an authentic local experience. Yuraku, close to Yonago Station, is another option offering local cuisine and a varied sake menu, but in a much busier environment (I recommend making a reservation). If you are searching for a bottle shop that stocks sake that isn’t available at major gift shops, Kawata Saketen, which services many of the bars and restaurants, likely has the best selection of San’in (Tottori and Shimane prefectures) sake in town. A visit will require a roughly 15-minute drive from Yonago Station.
Returning to the topic of manga, in addition to the aforementioned Detective Conan, Tottori Prefecture is also well known throughout the country as the birthplace of the popular manga/anime GeGeGe no Kitarō. The Mizuki Shigeru Museum, dedicated to its creator of the same name, is located in Sakaiminato, a small port city to Yonago’s northwest. The region has thoroughly embraced the theme. Trains on the line between Yonago and Sakaiminato are painted on the inside and out with Mizuki’s imaginative, macabre characters. There is even a spooky anime voice announcing each stop. Expect to ride the train with admirers of the manga wearing interesting paraphernalia, like a giant eyeball sitting on their shoulder.
Mizuki Road, the shopping street running between Sakaiminato Station and the museum, has statues of the manga characters along it and you will likely bump into people dressed as yōkai (supernatural beings of folklore) in the area. Note that the Mizuki Shigeru Museum is set to reopen in spring of 2024 after renovations.
For traveling families, the plethora of bizarre characters should delight youngsters. Sake-loving adults in the group will be more enticed by a visit to Chiyomusubi Shuzō, conveniently less than five minutes on foot from Sakaiminato Station. In addition to its standard premium sake, Chiyomusubi produces Sorah, a popular (top-notch, in my opinion) sparkling sake mainly for export that you can try at its standing bar–and purchase by the bottle. Tours are available daily (in Japanese, by reservation) for a small fee that includes tastings, and the brewery store sells a wide variety of products beyond its sake, including various spirits, umeshu, amazake, soy sauce, and other souvenirs. Many items are, of course, GeGeGe no Kitarō-themed.
Before a sake tasting, padding your stomach might be a good plan of action. The portside fish market (officially Sakaiminato Suisanbutsu Chokubai Center) is a great place to get fresh-off-the-boat seafood, either to be consumed at one of the restaurants there, or sent to your home (shipped nationwide). The big draw here is Tottori’s famous, giant, deep-sea crab matsuba-gani and benizuwai-gani (commonly called snow crab and red snow crab respectively). For connoisseurs of the crustacean resistance is futile!
Moving away from the coast, our final stop is Mount Daisen, part of Daisen-Oki National Park. The 1729m dormant volcano is both a holy site and a destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Daisen-ji, the mountain’s most well-known temple, dates back some 1300 years and houses a collection of ancient religious artifacts. Mix your cultural experience with biking, snowshoeing, or a climb to the summit for one of the best views in the region, weather permitting. The Daisen Tourism Organization has an exceptionally useful bilingual website (tourismdaisen.com) outlining a number of activities for visitors.
Mount Daisen is also the home of Kumezakura Shuzō, which brews both sake (Yagō) and the prefecture’s most popular craft beer, Daisen-G Beer. Though divisions of the same company, the breweries are a bit different in nature. The beer brewery generally follows highly controlled processes rooted in traditional German styles, though it does produce limited releases, like IPAs and sake-beer crossovers. Following the German theme, it has a giant beer hall called Bierhof Gambarius. Save sufficient room for a meal and a few brews here (sake also served). The sakagura, on the other hand, lets nature guide its way with much of the sake production. Its tasting room, generally used only for special events or visitors, is in the mold of a stylish, contemporary cooking studio/dining room.
One commonality in the beer and sake is heavy usage of all things local to Mount Daisen. Toji Tomonari Miwa explains that the goal is “to reflect the local land in sake”. The rice used is 100% from the Yagō area and is nurtured by the same water used in brewing. The artistic Miwa, now in his eighth season, is one of the more unique sake brewers I’ve met. Unlike most brewers, he starts the season not on a certain date, but when the weather is consistently cold enough. He says he doesn’t concern himself much with official sake designations. The Yagō brand, which is relatively easy to find, does adhere to standard styles, but much of what Miwa is brewing beyond that is hard to officially categorize. For these, the shubo (starter mash) is all kimoto with naturally occurring microorganisms allowed to drop in. All the sake is additive-free. Drawings done by Miwa himself grace the labels on the bottles in the tasting room. Concerning his philosophy as a brewer, think of him as more of a live, improv band than a polished performer repeating the same act each night–and that’s in his own words.
From Tottori City to Daisen, one thing that stands out to me in my visits is the great pride in, and overwhelmingly strong support of, all things homegrown. It’s more evident than in most places I’ve been in Japan. You don’t just have chicken, you have Daisen chicken. It’s not simply wagyū, it’s Tottori-raised wagyū. As a largely agricultural prefecture, dishes made with local vegetables and fruit abound on menus. The selection of sake and other alcoholic beverages offered follows suit. Getting around the countryside may present some challenges, but adventure is as much about the journey as it is the destination.
